Selbach-Oster Mosel Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Trocken Grosses Gewachs 2023 070226CRISP and the whole thing lands

and the whole thing lands juicy and bright rather than sweet

mineral and effortlessly drinkable

Their Barbera and other wines are equally tiny in production and classically made

both Loire natives

and stone-fruit aromatics framed by mouthwatering acidity and a long

Selbach-Oster Mosel Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Trocken Grosses Gewachs 2023 070226CRISP and the whole thing landsThe Zeltinger Sonnenuhr the sundial vineyard is one of the Mosel's monuments: a wall of blue slate so steep that picking it is closer to rock climbing than farming. This is Selbach Oster's Grosses Gewchs, the dry wine from their best mid slope parcels, including vines still growing on their original ungrafted roots. It rests on its lees for the better part of a year, which gives it a breadth and texture you don't expect from a grape this high strung.